Guatemala
Tomorrow in the jungle, place and time, nature and poetics
The early morning dresses itself in a veil of mist and kisses the numerous mountains and trees with gentle dew. The birds begin to sing and the jungle comes to life again. With each passing minute, the sun makes its way through the thicket of clouds in the sky and bathes the deep green leaves in golden light. It's 5 o'clock in the morning here at the Eco Hotel Utopia, a refuge hidden in the depths of the Guatemalan jungle, where I treat myself to my first cup of coffee. I walk barefoot across the soft wooden floorboards and stroke one of the many dogs that are also at home here. There are 11 dogs in total, who gradually gather in the communal area and wait for their morning dose of love. For three weeks now, I have been waking up in the early hours of the morning together with the jungle here in Semuc Champey and enjoying every second of it. Last night I fell asleep to the sound of the rain, which is particularly strong here in the middle of the wilderness and has turned into a lullaby for me. The rain cools the air and makes my hair curl. My favorite nights.
The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and toasted bread gradually lures the sleepy guests out of their rooms and fills the hotel with life. The day begins. A special one at that, because today I am taking part in the cocoa tour, which is a unique experience in Utopia. Just a few steps away is a colorful cocoa farm consisting of hundreds of cocoa trees and other plants, which together form their own ecosystem. Every day, new fruits grow from the small pink flowers and provide the people living here with fresh cocoa beans, which the employees use to make all kinds of dishes. From dark cocoa nibs and fine cocoa powder to crunchy chocolate and delicious cakes. The iced tea made from cocoa shells is also an absolute highlight. But we'll get to that a little later, because the time has already come and the silver bell at reception rings to announce the start of the tour.
“Everyone ready for the Cacao Tour?”
After a warm welcome, I follow Jenny, the tour guide for the day, into the depths of the cocoa farm. The path to the farm leads past the house of the founders John and Pia and their two children Obi and Indy. The sound of their laughter is carried into the farm with the leaves and fills the path with cheerfulness. Over a loose wooden bridge, I stroll along the paths of the cocoa farm and admire the multitude of trees, plants and flowers on which colorful insects seem to dance.History and cocoa knowledge
Jenny, clearly a cocoa veteran, talks about the creation of this farm and all the hurdles that went hand in hand with this decision. The path was not an easy one, as the flowers of the cocoa trees are extremely sensitive and can only grow into the wondrous fruit through pollination by insects. In one year, a cocoa tree produces up to 100,000 pink flowers, of which only 1-5% are successfully pollinated. Of this small percentage, a fraction grows into actual fruit. Depending on the size of the tree, a cocoa tree bears up to 30 pods a year, in good years even up to 50, which can be harvested throughout the year. However, care must be taken with the flowers. A slight touch can cause them to fall off and thus prevent the potential gift of a growing cocoa fruit. How extraordinary, because the ripe fruit itself can grow up to 25 cm in size and hangs from a small, very firm branch. The shell turns out to be incredibly hard and makes it almost impossible for any animals to eat the cocoa beans themselves. What a transformation. Not surprisingly, the Maya regarded the cacao fruit as a gift from the gods.
What a transformation. Not surprisingly, the Maya regarded the cacao fruit as a gift from the gods. Another very important part of the history of cacao, Jenny emphasizes. This is because cocoa was an integral part of the Maya's beliefs, associated rituals and social interaction. In addition to being used as a means of payment, the liquid chocolate was also regarded as the blood of the gods and offered as a sacrifice. Traditionally, the Maya drank their cocoa with warm water and various spices such as chilli, pepper or vanilla, which was usually only used on special occasions such as rituals, sacrifices or before important battles.
One of my favorite traditions from the Madrid Codex illustrates a negotiation between the goddess of the moon IxChel and the god of rain Chac, in which the exchange of cacao plays an important role. It is assumed that both the fertility of the earth and the continuity of the seasons were negotiated in these discussions, which in this context points to the preservation of the rain and the phases of the moon. Cocoa as a means of exchange between gods thus lends the latter a creative quality.
Jenny also talks about the many different Mayan languages that are still spoken today. Here in Semuc Champey, for example, Q'eqchi' is spoken. "Wa' xin", which means "good day", is my first word in Q'eqchi'. A wondrous world that opens up to me through this historical background. It's crazy to think that up until now, I have more or less thoughtlessly wandered into the store and bought chocolate and cocoa without knowing the rich history of this miracle fruit. However, all this knowledge makes my little archaeologist's heart beat faster.
Jenny also talks about the many different Mayan languages that are still spoken today. Here in Semuc Champey, for example, Q'eqchi' is spoken. "Wa' xin", which means "good day", is my first word in Q'eqchi'. A wondrous world that opens up to me through this historical background. It's crazy to think that up until now, I have more or less thoughtlessly wandered into the store and bought chocolate and cocoa without knowing the rich history of this miracle fruit. However, all this knowledge makes my little archaeologist's heart beat faster.
“It opens up your heart”
In the second episode of our Guatemala series, Deniz interviews Jenny as they continue to process the cocoa.
Episode 2
